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    February 03

    Hedi Slimane


    Photo by unknown
     
    中文网上写得都是关于Hedi的时装,个人信息不多。这里简要写一下:
    Hedi Slimane 现任法国品牌Christian Dior男装 - Dior Homme的设计总监。(女装就叫Christian Dior。 母公司是有世界头号抽钱机器美称的LVMH 奢侈品集团) 现年38岁,突尼斯父亲,意大利的母亲还有巴西的外婆。出生在法国的Hedi从未受过专业服装设计训练,学的是关于政治类的新闻传播。20多岁的时候在朋友的推荐下去了服装公司当学徒。从此平步青云:3年后被圣罗兰(YSL)发掘天赋,招去了YSL Rive Gauche(YSL左岸 - 圣罗兰顶级产品线)当助理,而后升为设计总监。自1997到2000年,工作4年。自2001年起转投Dior男装,开始Dior Homme品牌的创意总监工作至今6年。
     
    1999年 PPR集团 (第二大奢侈品集团 - 旗下有Gucci, Alexander McQueen和Balenciaga 等著名品牌) 用10亿美元收购了YSL。接替Hedi担任YSL左岸的总监自然是Tom Ford - 原GUCCI的创意总监。形势就变为Tom是Hedi的老板了。Hedi和Tom的价值观和经营理念是完全背道而驰,所以不得不选择离开。当时谈妥的条件Tom答应给Hedi在GUCCI集团下另创一个全新的个人品牌;同时Dior邀请他过去为他们萎靡不振的男装担任设计师。Dior在2001年前只有女装,男装部没有设计师,大部分的衣服都放在飞机场之类的地方卖...Hedi选择了后者,很明显地偏向法国公司和对YSL先生的致敬。
     
    在Dior Homme的2001 Debut Fashion Show上YSL亲自到场坐在第一排!这位大师早在20年前就没有出席在任何时装秀场上。而后在Tom接任YSL的第一场Show上,他缺席了。我知道那味道肯定不好。
     
    基本情况就这些。前段日子传言Hedi与Dior合同到期,要离开Dior Homme,但随着最近的07 巴黎秋冬展顺利发布,没有任何消息表示他要离开。看来LVMH的新合同还是留住了他。
     
    几个关键字:Berlin (柏林)、Adolescent (少年)、Black, White & Red (黑白红)、Androgynous (雌雄同体) 
     
    --- 写于2005澳洲,修订2007上海

    Comments (4)

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    Shawn Niuwrote:
    @YD,

    现在想想,时间过得真快。
    Oct. 16
    Shawn Niuwrote:
    @THE NoBODY,

    Agree
    Oct. 16
    D Ywrote:
    Hedi在DH的第一場Show,完的時候,他走到觀眾席親了YSL一下。
    不只代表了一分知遇之恩,還有一分謙虛。
    Sept. 15
    Picture of Anonymous
    THE NoBODY wrote:
    恭喜恭喜,终于开门了。尺寸的放大是对商业的妥协。店越开越多,尺寸可不能老收着不放啊。
    Feb. 4

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